Repairing a Petzl Tikka XP2 headlamp

Headlamp wouldn’t turn on, and there is damn little info out on how to open the #$@! things. I figured it out, and to pay my karma for other projects, I documented what worked for me.

So my trusty old Petzl Tikka XP2 stopped working. The top button got loose and became a flap, then even pushing the micro button directly, it wouldn’t turn on.

The first order of business is how to open the damn thing. I began by opening up the headlamp to get access to the batteries. It hinges at the bottom, some minor side force and the headband back of the lamp will pop off cleanly.

Then came the screw problem. Once you remove the back of the headlamp, and then the batteries, you’ll see two tiny screws. Those are not Philips, they are Torx screws. Specifically they are Torx T5 screws. So I had to buy a set of Torx screwdrivers off Amazon. $12 right there, but I will use them for other project.

Unscrew those two screws. Once they are out, the electronics still won’t come out of the shell. You will have to unclip the two plastic clips at the top of the battery area near the switch. Use a small screwdriver, and very little force.

It popped out with some gentle tugging. Once the electronics was out, I examined the case. The little front diffuser door popped off, but I’ll deal with that later. To fix the red button I used superglue to seal up the red rubber button to the case so it was water tight again. Then I clicked on the PCB micro switch button to see if I could figure out what was wrong.

This button had become corroded and was sprayed for 1-2 seconds with Contact cleaner to fix it. Avoid having the cleaner hit the CREE LED.

It turned on once but that was it. As a wild guess, I assumed a corroded contactor so I sprayed some electric contact cleaner on it typically used for scratchy potietiometers.

I clicked the button over and over and…nothing. So I kept clicking then it turned on….click, click, click, click..and off. The more I clicked, the more reliable it became. Finally each click turned it on and off. Maybe 100 clicks before the contact cleaner had kicked in.

Finally, it was working! So I reversed the steps, put in the diffuser door (not sure what worked but it got back in place) snapped the electronics back in, screwed in the T5 Torx screws, and bam! Working again.

Wear 3x Magnifiers for examining tiny components. It makes it easier!


Medieval Venison Sausage from 1533

Source: Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin (c. 1553)

(Apparently one of the first cookbooks published by a woman. )

Weltt jr gútt prattwirst machen

So nempt 4 pfúnd schweinis vnnd 4 pfúnd rinderis, das last klainhacken, nempt darnach 2 pfúnd speck darúnder vnnd hackts anainander vnnd vngeferlich 3 seidlen wasser giest daran, thiet aúch saltz, pfeffer daran, wie jrs geren est, oder wan jr geren kreúter darin megt haben/ múgt jr nemen ain wenig ain salua vnnd ain wenig maseron, so habt jr gút brattwirst/.

“If you would make good bratwurst”If you would make good bratwurst

Take four pounds of pork and four pounds of beef and chop it finely. After that mix with it two pounds of bacon and chop it together and pour approximately one quart of water on it. Also add salt and pepper thereto, however you like to eat it, or if you would like to have some good herbs, you could take some sage and some marjoram, then you have good bratwurst.”

10OCT23 – Here are my notes and addendums:

So she basically says 8 parts meat, equal pork and beef, and 2 parts fat. Which is in the traditional 20-30% fat range needed for good sausage. So that checks out. Then she adds a little water which is normal to help the bind of the sausage, so that checks. Salt, pepper, yep, that is all normal. Sage and marjoram, that checks but she doesn’t give the ratio on any of this. Going off of my experience 1.5%-2.5% is appropriate for salt content for modern taste pallets. 1.8-2.0% is more my preference. However, I suspect it was made with much higher salt content. In history, I’ve seen roman recipe as high at 10%! This is quite salty and unpalatable, but it would preserve and would likely be shelf stable and hung all year at room temp. However, it would have to be soaked to be used, or added to a large pot of stew and the salt would diffuse.

But I ran with 2% salt and no curing salt #1 (Prague powder #1/Sodium nitrate) to stay true as possible. This prevented me from smoking it due to food safety. I split it 50/50 pork and venison and added in pork fat to balance out the venison. She doesn’t mention the requirement to kneed the mince to make it tacky for a good bind, but you must do that. Kneed until it is sticky that a small ball of mince in your hand clings to your glove.

Substitute Venison for beef. Use a 25% fat ratio, 2.0% salt, 0.25% pepper, 0.25% Sage, 0.25% marjoram. Optional- You must use 0.25% Cure #1 if you are going to smoke it because of anaerobic conditions induces risk of botulism.

I’ve made 9 types of sausage, and I have to say this is a good sausage! I will recommend it. Simple – just salt, pepper, marjoram, sage. It has passed the test of time, 5 centuries!