I would have preferred to use broad leaf ligustrum as my weavers but I didn’t have the time or money to harvest so frilling many to have a fence made out of them. Instead I found a guy who had just cleared out a batch of invasive bamboo and had a thousand linear feet or so. I had him trim off the leafy bits and leave me with the straight stalks. Driving in the posts (juniper that don’t rot in 20 years) took me 6 man hours. Weaving in the wattles took 2 man hours. Total length that I built is 32 feet.
- Green bamboo is more flexible and better.
- Once the diameter is over 1″ it becomes hard to weave
- Make sure your posts are lined up! Use a tight line to guide you. I got off a little and it caused some bamboo to break around that pole.
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The shed keeps moving along.
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So the front orchard is going to need water. I could have just run the irrigation hose to the back tanks, but noooo that would have been easy. Instead I chose to harvest more water off the front of the house where very little water is harvested. I already have two 55 gallon barrels taking in water on the front, those water the fig tree. They only catch a fraction of the rain from 1200 sq ft of roof surface during a rain. So I put in another rain downspout, and ran it under the sidewalk. The tank is a 330 gallon IBC tote, painted and with a shade cloth to mitigate algae growth.
The easy way to tunnel under a side walk is using a water hose with water going full blast and shove it under. It erodes out the dirt and I can reach under and pull out the rocks. Took 20 minutes to dig the trenches on each side of the sidewalk but only took 10 minutes to burrow under. So the premise is the water will fill up the pipe, go down, then go back up the pipe and fill into the tank because the tank level is lower than the starting downspout level.
Then it rained a week later, the tank filled up and then overflowed, because I forgot to drill anti siphon holes on the top of the overflow U, the entire tank drained out. But I discovered that at the end of the rain and fixed it, so the tank filled 1/2 full before the end.
The front orchard has 8 trees in it: 2 Texas Persimmons (at least 40 years old), 2 jujubes, 2 Pomgranates, and a VDB fig.
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Another Spring upon us. The winter was inconsistant with periods of cold and warm, thus most of my fruit trees didn’t get enough chill hours to bloom.
In the front yard, I got a Celeste fig planted near Biff Polywog, our sea dragon.
The front yard swale now has 2 Jujube trees (Honey Jar and ?), 2 Pomgranates (a Wonderful and an Eversweet?), some family purple Irises, and soon another Fig from Dad’s place I call a Center White as it is a white fig with closed eye.
Bought a roll of driveway rebar wire to make tomato cages and tree protector cages. It was tough to work with but it does the job.
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The LX 100 camera is great compact 4/3 sensor camera. But it is prone to dust on the sensor which is likely pulled in by suction as it telescopes out.
Taking the camera apart is a chore, but I’ve read someone using a vacuum to apply suction to the lens assembly to pull out dust. Didn’t think much about it, but when I got dust on my sensor after 6 months, well. Had to try.
I turned it on and off twice to get the dust semi-airborne I hoped. Then turned on my vacuum cleaner and using the extension hose, i held it on the front side of the lens assembly then turned the camera off, which collapses the assemble and hopefully exerts positive air pressure. I repeated this 5 times. Then checked the camera using a white background. Poof, dust on sensor gone! Boy, was I surprised. I wanted to make an adaptor out of cardboard between the camera lens and the vacuum, but it wasn’t needed.
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Eratosthenes measured the world using shadows cast in two different cities at the same time. I’ve been wanting to replicate it for over decade. Today I did. 5 volunteers from San Diego to Nashville all have the same style of pencil of the same length. Everyone is to measure the shadow on it at noon CST. Today only 2 could do it. From the data, I have computed the following:
circumference_earth – 32744.22 miles
> real_circumference_earth<-24901 miles
So a rough, but useful first attempt. The R code I’m using is:
#computing circumference of earth library(dplyr) library(tidyr) library(ggplot2) library(animation) library(readr) setwd("~/Copy/R/climate change/") real_circumference_earth<-24901 data<-as.data.frame(read_delim("earth shadow data.csv", ",")) data<-data[,-1] pencil<- 19.0 avg_data<-(colMeans(data)) str(data) avg_data angle_mt<-180-90-atan(pencil/avg_data)/(2*pi/360) angle_tc<-180-90-atan(pencil/avg_data)/(2*pi/360) net_angle_tc<-angle_tc-angle_mt angle_mt angle_ratio_to_tc<-360/abs(net_angle_tc) distance_trevor<-651.0 earth_circ_per_tc<-distance_trevor*angle_ratio_to_tc earth_circ_per_tc err_per_tc<-(earth_circ_per_tc-real_circumference_earth)/real_circumference_earth*100 err_per_tc
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Yep, Erathosthenes, that greek scholar who invented the leap year and measured the earth’s circumference, all in 200BC from Alexandria. I have discovered he systemically was set up to have errors based on his assumptions.
He was off by about 15%, and today I figured out part of why he was wrong. The premise is Erathosthenes read in a book about a well in what is now the town of Aswan. He read this well cast no shadow on a particular day of the year. If you look at the image on wikipedia, it shows the suns rays directly overhead. This is impossible as Aswan is north of the Tropic of Capricorn by 50 miles. It would be approximate, but not truly directly overhead at solar noon on the summer solstice. The sun can only be directly over head in the band south of the Tropic of Cancer to the Tropic of Capricorn.
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My little orange tree at Schick that I bought at the nursery with unripe oranges this spring, finally ripened up and I harvested 8 oranges off of it. Possibly ripened by thanksgiving. Definitely ripe on Dec 8. Plan on making some cuttings to ensure the plant lives in case it dies this winter. The other tree, at my house didn’t have oranges this year. Dunno if that is a function of 3″ of soil on a rocky slope, or the youth of the plant. The Schick property has far better soil.
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Used some simple R to create this
Not alot of insight to be had. Possibly because of the teleprompter he used.
setwd("~/cloud/R/") aFile = readLines("trumpacceptance.txt") library(tm) library("SnowballC") myCorpus = Corpus(VectorSource(aFile)) myCorpus = tm_map(myCorpus, content_transformer(tolower)) myCorpus = tm_map(myCorpus, removePunctuation) myCorpus = tm_map(myCorpus, removeNumbers) myCorpus = tm_map(myCorpus, removeWords, stopwords("english")) myCorpus <- tm_map(myCorpus, PlainTextDocument) myDTM = TermDocumentMatrix(myCorpus, control = list(minWordLength = 1)) m = as.matrix(myDTM) v = sort(rowSums(m), decreasing = TRUE) library(wordcloud) set.seed(4333) d <- data.frame(word = names(v),freq=v) wordcloud(words = d$word, freq = d$freq, min.freq = 1, max.words=200, random.order=FALSE, rot.per=0.35, colors=brewer.pal(8, "Dark2"))
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So I got a Downtube 9FS in 2015, with the intent to modify it to a eBike with a Bafang BBS02 motor. Then take it on an epic tour through the Carribean islands.
The Downtube is a folding bike, permitting multi-modal travel. Take it on a bus, no problem, train, no problem, trunk of my wifes Honda Civic… tight fit, but no problem. So it has some big pluses. After I’ve put 2000 ebike miles on it, I understand its utility a lot better.
First, with the Bafang ebike motor, you get to use the gears. And the 9FS has 9 gears. Big plus as I live in a hilly area of Austin. I chose the 44T chainring model as I wanted more torque over speed. Wow, does it climb hills, up 20% grade hills at 9mph in bottom gear pulling only 16amps.
Second, I put on big apple tires, 2.15″ tires. Gives more cushion, steering feels less twitchy, but the big tires caused some derailour problems and I lose my lowest gear due to clearance to the tire. I’m thinking these maybe too big for the back wheel.
Third, the battery is heavy, like 15# and now the bike is very back heavy and prone to accidental wheelies. Part of that is I chose a handlebar throttle and not a thumb throttle. So I accidentally can throttle sometimes. And part of that is the handlebar throttle is not very linear. Turn it 1/2 way and nothing, 3/4 and you are at full throttle. Somewhere at 11/16th you start to feather into the throttle. Not a good throttle and I should get another, but I’m cheap.
Fourth, my pattern is using under 5 amp-hours for 95% of my trips. The bike normally can do 2.5 miles per amp-hour of battery. So 5 ah= 12.5 miles of range. But I’m lugging either a 20ah battery or a 26 ah battery around when i should have a 5-8ah battery. Preferably one mounted in a bottle rack. For instramentaion, I went with a WattsUp wattmeter to tell me how many amp-hourss I have left, because
the Bafang has no useful power readings. Bear in mind the only measurement you really want to worry about is amp hours. You run outta those and you have to pedal home.
Sixth, speaking of racks, putting a rack on this bike was a pain to research what would work. I eventually went with a Biologic rear rack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OSYSUA) and a Axiom Journey Lowrider rack
for the front fork (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081FQW4E)
Then I bought Axiom panniers for front and back.
Seventh, after all that I realized that most carribean islands I want to tour are so damn small I should just take a light folding bike with no motor. Even Aruba can be toured in a day. So I need to buy a Nova and put on a rack and I’m good to go.
Ultimately, I’ve discovered that this ebike excels at letting me ride around town, out of town, and all around, and then I can take other modes of transportation back. It is a keeper.
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